Rwanda is an interesting place because although they experienced a life- and country-shattering genocide less than 20 years ago, it is not visible to the casual visitor. The Kigali Genocide Memorial Centre ("Gisozi Memorial") is hidden on the side of a hill and the Hotel des Mille Collines, on which the movie Hotel Rwanda is based, continues to be a functioning posh hotel.
But the scars from the genocide are there and they run extremely deep. Everyone knows who was involved in the killings, who lost their family, and who helped or stood by as this all happened. That means the social life there is bracketed by this knowledge and many individuals really only socialize with a select few family members and friends. Joining a social circle there is extremely difficult and although everyone on the street is excessively helpful, they will never get into the personal discussions that you may get if you were a foreigner in say, Tanzania or Turkey. I was also talking with two girls who work in mental health in Kigali, and they said the matter is further complicated by the lack of appropriate words for feelings in Kinyarwanda. Very few people are willing to talk about how the genocide affect them, and those who do struggle to find the right words to express anger, frustration, dismay, and loss.
Hotel des Mille Collines is also interesting because in Kigali most hotels let you use their pools for $5/day, but in this hotel you know you're swimming in a pool that played an integral part of protecting over a thousand genocide refugees. Guidebooks expressly recommend going to this hotel and swimming in their pool because of this, a very odd recommendation in my opinion. I found it discomforting and strange just to sit in the bar there because all I could think was that a thousand people hid for their lives in what is now the most expensive location in the city. The garden is truly beautiful and it provides this amazing oasis from the sounds and discomforts of the city, but there is a constant feeling of parallel histories as you imagine the fear and anguish that existed only 20 years ago in the exact same location. The disparate realities are difficult to process.
Rwanda has recovered miraculously from the devastation that followed the genocide economically and politically, particularly since the current government is doing everything it can to memorialize the event while continuing to push the country forward to development and modernity. Nonetheless, I wonder sometimes at the underlying emotional damage that follows people around. Will they pass these scars and fears on to their children? Will the country ever open up emotionally or will it continue to grow as a guarded society? Will there later be outward manifestations, like a high level of mental disease or physical aggression?
If you ever are in Kigali, the Gisozi and Hotel des Mille Collines are must-visit locations, but both only really scratch at the surface of what happened and is continuing to develop in the country.
Showing posts with label Bosch. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bosch. Show all posts
Friday, June 29, 2012
Sunday, June 24, 2012
Kigali Stories: Food
OK, so this isn't really a story, but I love food and here's what's up in Kigali (abridged):
Must Have:
Milk and/or yogurt, particularly the ones that are produced locally on the outskirts of Kigali
Homemade ice cream from La Galette, the German bakery (I like cherry, but all the flavors are outstanding)
Isambaza (available at all the local markets, but safer if you ask a local where to get the best stuff)
Market-bought passion fruit, avocado, and papaya. The papaya especially far surpasses any import you might get in Europe or the U.S.
Restaurants:
Ok, I only went to three restaurants so this is not extensive by any means...in general, all restaurants are vegetarian-friendly, so I won't make specific notes about that.
Lalibela
Kimihura (also called Kimihurura) neighborhood
The only Ethiopian restaurant in the city and popular with just about everyone. Go for their lunch buffet, where you can partake in an all-you-can-eat buffet with a drink for less than the U.S. equivalent of $10. The sponge bread is not as sour as you may expect from Ethiopian, but the rest of the food is good quality and traditional. In the neighborhood of
Africa Bite
Kimihura
You saw the pictures before (click the link if you didn't!), so you know their lunch buffet is also awesome. Slightly cheaper than Lalibela, in the same neighborhood, but less vegetarian-friendly. But they also include dessert bowl of fresh cut fruit, so I'm a fan!
Hotel de Milles Collines
City Center, Kiyovu
The hotel from Hotel Rwanda continues to be an expensive and upscale hotel (more on that later) and provides the perfect oasis within the city if you want cocktails or a quick bite to eat. Definitely more expensive than anywhere else you might go in the entire city, but might be worth it if you want to be surrounded by grass, leafy trees, and near-total peace from the city noises. They also make a mean (and surprisingly spicy) quesadilla if you're craving Mexican...
Must Have:
Milk and/or yogurt, particularly the ones that are produced locally on the outskirts of Kigali
Homemade ice cream from La Galette, the German bakery (I like cherry, but all the flavors are outstanding)
Isambaza (available at all the local markets, but safer if you ask a local where to get the best stuff)
Market-bought passion fruit, avocado, and papaya. The papaya especially far surpasses any import you might get in Europe or the U.S.
Restaurants:
Ok, I only went to three restaurants so this is not extensive by any means...in general, all restaurants are vegetarian-friendly, so I won't make specific notes about that.
Lalibela
Kimihura (also called Kimihurura) neighborhood
The only Ethiopian restaurant in the city and popular with just about everyone. Go for their lunch buffet, where you can partake in an all-you-can-eat buffet with a drink for less than the U.S. equivalent of $10. The sponge bread is not as sour as you may expect from Ethiopian, but the rest of the food is good quality and traditional. In the neighborhood of
Africa Bite
Kimihura
You saw the pictures before (click the link if you didn't!), so you know their lunch buffet is also awesome. Slightly cheaper than Lalibela, in the same neighborhood, but less vegetarian-friendly. But they also include dessert bowl of fresh cut fruit, so I'm a fan!
Hotel de Milles Collines
City Center, Kiyovu
The hotel from Hotel Rwanda continues to be an expensive and upscale hotel (more on that later) and provides the perfect oasis within the city if you want cocktails or a quick bite to eat. Definitely more expensive than anywhere else you might go in the entire city, but might be worth it if you want to be surrounded by grass, leafy trees, and near-total peace from the city noises. They also make a mean (and surprisingly spicy) quesadilla if you're craving Mexican...
Kigali Stories: Children
The children in Kigali appear to be well-mannered schoolkids around their schools and playgrounds (in glaring contrast to the schools I saw in Tanzania), but there is this crazy phenomenon where they go insane the second they see white people on the street. All of the sudden these wild monkeys dressed in blue school uniforms,start yelling, I love you! I am 7 years old! Do you have money! I'm hungry!. What's even more interesting is that at a certain age, the behavior stops and the older students take a cool indifference to us. Although the
kids legitimately hope they'll get money, they also just delight in
yelling out everything they know in English, which sometimes leads to a
string of ridiculous statements.
Thursday, June 21, 2012
Homeward Bound
May 22 - 23, 2012
Remember how getting to Tanzania was terrible? Yeah, getting back to Germany was much worse.
Our last night in Stone Town we ended up in a hotel that was undergoing renovation and as a result, we couldn't get a room with air conditioning. The overwhelming heat prevented us from sleeping and I actually got up several times in the middle of the night to throw water on my face. At 6 in the morning we speedily ate a hard-boiled egg and some coffee and rushed to the ferry back to Dar.
I should have suspected something when the man started walking around handing out black bags labelled "sick bags", but Kira and I have both spent significant time on boats and figured we'd be fine. Hah. Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha. Turns out when you take the ferry to Zanzibar you're going with the current but when you come back, you're going against the current. Those in the know (and who can afford it) take the boat in and then fly back. Two hours of nonstop roller-coaster like activity and everyone was sick. EVERYONE. 30 minutes in I went out on the deck and sat on the ground by the railings, trying to keep an eye on the horizon while Kira put her super-heavy-duty headphones on so she couldn't hear everyone getting sick around her. One woman on the deck would periodically make these inhuman, wild cat roar-like noises while grown men would make these queasy smiley faces right before pulling their black bags closer. It was a nightmare scene out of a movie.
Although neither of us got sick, but I felt like I was on a rocking boat for two days afterwards and our Dar colleagues kept commenting on the white pallor of our skin. Even thinking about it now makes me pale. When we arrived in Dar we went directly to our office there where we had to finalize some things before flying home that night. After spending the day there, we drove to the airport and got on the first leg of our overnight flight back.
The flight to Ethiopia went fine, but then the flight to Frankfurt was delayed. When we finally boarded, Kira was upgraded to business. When I asked the steward, "what about her travel partner?" He was like, "maybe you can pay five dollars and come for a visit later" and then open his mouth to expel this evil sinister laugh. I was SO CLOSE to punching him the face. Ok not really, but I definitely had a moment where I imagined what that would be like. He knew this flight was a stressful situation for everyone and to make such a joke was beyond cruel.
In a twist of miserable fate I ended up in a row with a mother and her four kids who spoke no English or German and were behaving like wild banshees. Turns out that several flights on this route had been cancelled in the past few days on account of storms and several people had been stranded, resulting in an overbooked flight and Kira's upgrade. I wouldn't have minded, but a lack of sleep was making me slightly crazy. Halfway through the flight we made a stopover in Sudan, where we then proceeded to be delayed by a sandstorm. A sandstorm. My first time in a sandstorm was on a rocking plane filled with wailing children and snarky flight attendants.
To add to the misery, every time something happened, the pilot would come on and in this monotonous voice (think Office Space) would start to explain in great detail what was going on: "As you folks can see, there is a sand storm. I don't know about sand storms, but obviously we can't fly right now. I talked to the folks from the airport. They know about sand storms. They said it'll probably be over in 15 minutes. Then if we can see, we should take off. After the flights before us. There are some flights ahead of us in line, so they'll take off first. Some sand might come through the air ventilation. Don't freak out. That happens sometimes. We don't think it will happen this time, but it could. If it does, please don't freak out..." on and on and on. Then again in German. On top of that, I sat next to man who kept sending wild hand signals to his wife who was sitting a few rows ahead of us, as if she couldn't understand what was going on, even though she clearly could. I didn't sleep the entire night and when we finally made it to Frankfurt at 7am, I was completely trashed. Kira, having slept in business class, asked me how my night was and I just teared up.
I walked out of the airport and to the bus home, which had just arrived. As the driver got out I asked in German if I could sit inside while he took his break. He thought I was German (he was of Turkish descent) and in a very condescending and rude manner said, "Noooooo. No, I need break. SMOKE? I need a smoke!" Then I just snapped and responded in Turkish, "Understood! I just wanted to know if I could sit inside while you did that!" and then teared up and stalked away. I think I scared him because he came back early and said, "look, look, I'm here. Do you need help with your bags? I'm so sorry, I thought you were German." Like being German made his behavior ok?! I'm exhausted, who cares if I'm German, Turkish, or from Mars? Either do something nice for someone or politely tell them you can't. No need for the attitude.
Lesson learned? Next time I have long trips, I'm traveling during the day. In retrospect, the whole situation was like a national lampoon comedy, but because I was so tired the only laughter I was capable of was maniacal, on-the-edge cackling. At least with day travel, I'll have a chance of normal sleep between my flights and can avoid the borderline crazy. The other lesson is, I am never going to assume I've just had the worst travel experience possible because as I learned only a few weeks later, it can always get worse.
Remember how getting to Tanzania was terrible? Yeah, getting back to Germany was much worse.
Our last night in Stone Town we ended up in a hotel that was undergoing renovation and as a result, we couldn't get a room with air conditioning. The overwhelming heat prevented us from sleeping and I actually got up several times in the middle of the night to throw water on my face. At 6 in the morning we speedily ate a hard-boiled egg and some coffee and rushed to the ferry back to Dar.
I should have suspected something when the man started walking around handing out black bags labelled "sick bags", but Kira and I have both spent significant time on boats and figured we'd be fine. Hah. Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha. Turns out when you take the ferry to Zanzibar you're going with the current but when you come back, you're going against the current. Those in the know (and who can afford it) take the boat in and then fly back. Two hours of nonstop roller-coaster like activity and everyone was sick. EVERYONE. 30 minutes in I went out on the deck and sat on the ground by the railings, trying to keep an eye on the horizon while Kira put her super-heavy-duty headphones on so she couldn't hear everyone getting sick around her. One woman on the deck would periodically make these inhuman, wild cat roar-like noises while grown men would make these queasy smiley faces right before pulling their black bags closer. It was a nightmare scene out of a movie.
Although neither of us got sick, but I felt like I was on a rocking boat for two days afterwards and our Dar colleagues kept commenting on the white pallor of our skin. Even thinking about it now makes me pale. When we arrived in Dar we went directly to our office there where we had to finalize some things before flying home that night. After spending the day there, we drove to the airport and got on the first leg of our overnight flight back.
The flight to Ethiopia went fine, but then the flight to Frankfurt was delayed. When we finally boarded, Kira was upgraded to business. When I asked the steward, "what about her travel partner?" He was like, "maybe you can pay five dollars and come for a visit later" and then open his mouth to expel this evil sinister laugh. I was SO CLOSE to punching him the face. Ok not really, but I definitely had a moment where I imagined what that would be like. He knew this flight was a stressful situation for everyone and to make such a joke was beyond cruel.
In a twist of miserable fate I ended up in a row with a mother and her four kids who spoke no English or German and were behaving like wild banshees. Turns out that several flights on this route had been cancelled in the past few days on account of storms and several people had been stranded, resulting in an overbooked flight and Kira's upgrade. I wouldn't have minded, but a lack of sleep was making me slightly crazy. Halfway through the flight we made a stopover in Sudan, where we then proceeded to be delayed by a sandstorm. A sandstorm. My first time in a sandstorm was on a rocking plane filled with wailing children and snarky flight attendants.
To add to the misery, every time something happened, the pilot would come on and in this monotonous voice (think Office Space) would start to explain in great detail what was going on: "As you folks can see, there is a sand storm. I don't know about sand storms, but obviously we can't fly right now. I talked to the folks from the airport. They know about sand storms. They said it'll probably be over in 15 minutes. Then if we can see, we should take off. After the flights before us. There are some flights ahead of us in line, so they'll take off first. Some sand might come through the air ventilation. Don't freak out. That happens sometimes. We don't think it will happen this time, but it could. If it does, please don't freak out..." on and on and on. Then again in German. On top of that, I sat next to man who kept sending wild hand signals to his wife who was sitting a few rows ahead of us, as if she couldn't understand what was going on, even though she clearly could. I didn't sleep the entire night and when we finally made it to Frankfurt at 7am, I was completely trashed. Kira, having slept in business class, asked me how my night was and I just teared up.
I walked out of the airport and to the bus home, which had just arrived. As the driver got out I asked in German if I could sit inside while he took his break. He thought I was German (he was of Turkish descent) and in a very condescending and rude manner said, "Noooooo. No, I need break. SMOKE? I need a smoke!" Then I just snapped and responded in Turkish, "Understood! I just wanted to know if I could sit inside while you did that!" and then teared up and stalked away. I think I scared him because he came back early and said, "look, look, I'm here. Do you need help with your bags? I'm so sorry, I thought you were German." Like being German made his behavior ok?! I'm exhausted, who cares if I'm German, Turkish, or from Mars? Either do something nice for someone or politely tell them you can't. No need for the attitude.
Lesson learned? Next time I have long trips, I'm traveling during the day. In retrospect, the whole situation was like a national lampoon comedy, but because I was so tired the only laughter I was capable of was maniacal, on-the-edge cackling. At least with day travel, I'll have a chance of normal sleep between my flights and can avoid the borderline crazy. The other lesson is, I am never going to assume I've just had the worst travel experience possible because as I learned only a few weeks later, it can always get worse.
Tuesday, June 19, 2012
Dar Es Salaam
May 17, 2012
As mentioned in an earlier post, I was in Dar es Salaam for a conference and I don't have any pictures of that. It would the inside of hotel conference room and people in business suits, pretty typical conference activities. On Friday, however, we had the opportunity to look around the city. Dar es Salaam reminds me a little bit of Istanbul when I was a child, although slightly more difficult since I don't speak Swahili. Many of the people's attitudes, the buildings, even the drivers felt very familiar.
People also kept driving to sell us stuff and almost all of them asked if we were Peace Corps volunteers. Apparently a lot of them transit through Dar...
A "market", which consisted of many stalls set up along a sidewalk.
The two banana sellers wanted me to take a picture but when I went to get their emails so I could send it to them, it turned out they didn't have email accounts. She tried to give me her phone number, which doesn't really work for sending photos...if any of you are ever in Dar es Salaam, please print a copy of the picture and take it to the ladies.
Oh my gosh, I love the movie Cars, too!!
Rice by the bushel...
In case, you know, you need a random sign or license plate.
As mentioned in an earlier post, I was in Dar es Salaam for a conference and I don't have any pictures of that. It would the inside of hotel conference room and people in business suits, pretty typical conference activities. On Friday, however, we had the opportunity to look around the city. Dar es Salaam reminds me a little bit of Istanbul when I was a child, although slightly more difficult since I don't speak Swahili. Many of the people's attitudes, the buildings, even the drivers felt very familiar.
People also kept driving to sell us stuff and almost all of them asked if we were Peace Corps volunteers. Apparently a lot of them transit through Dar...
A "market", which consisted of many stalls set up along a sidewalk.
The two banana sellers wanted me to take a picture but when I went to get their emails so I could send it to them, it turned out they didn't have email accounts. She tried to give me her phone number, which doesn't really work for sending photos...if any of you are ever in Dar es Salaam, please print a copy of the picture and take it to the ladies.
Oh my gosh, I love the movie Cars, too!!
Rice by the bushel...
In case, you know, you need a random sign or license plate.
Transition
May 12, 2012
Sadly, my time in Rwanda went by far too quickly. Onwards to Tanzania via Kenya. A simple trip that became far too complicated.
From the first, we're not allowed through security until they announce check-in for our plane. Unusual, but I'm sure they have their reasons...so I wait until they call my flight, go through security and check-in, only to wait again inside the airport for my flight.
After landing in Nairobi as planned I checked into my gate only to be informed two hours later that we would be delayed another three hours. After spending an hour trying to use the airport Wifi I find an internet cafe and inform my Dar es Salaam colleagues I would be delayed. Only to hear precisely after I clicked "send" we were now NOT delayed by three hours but rather only one and would be boarding IMMEDIATELY. After running back to my gate, everyone is still sitting there. Why? The airline is hanging out blue ponchos.
That's right. We were going to walk across the airport to our plane and therefore needed ponchos because it was monsoon raining. No bus, no security, just willy-nilly across the asphalt in our blue ponchoes to our airplane. And then, in another first for me, I was asked to sit in one of the exit seats that faces the plane rather than the cockpit. Taking off facing the back of the plane, in a rainstorm, is a different experience, that's for sure...
After finally making it to Dar es Salaam, I go to pay my visa in Euros, but they insist I get American dollars because "you'll get a better deal". Turns out that it's 100 Euros or a 100 dollars for American citizens, we have no choice on single or multiple entry visas and they don't give change. OKAAAAAY. Where should I get dollars? Oh easy, he says. Walk through the passport check - without a visa and without a check - go to the exchange office, change the money, then come back. That's right. I walked through without my passport or anything, out of passport control and into baggage claim where I could exchange my money. No escort or anything, he just trusted that an exhausted, red-eyed American would come back. I did, naturally, but still.
Thirty minutes later, visa in hand, I find that none of the luggage made it on the plane. That's right, we were delayed but somehow they just chose not to load anyone's luggage while waiting. After 12 hours of travel, I just don't care. I have some extra clothes in my backpack - "just in case" she says - and seeing how I was staying in a fancy hotel for work, I figure they'll have a toothbrush. So I fill out my forms and tell them where to deliver my luggage when they get it.
I hop in the car with my driver. Oh whoops no, I hop in a car with someone else's driver, so I get out again. Then I hop in MY car and we start the longest 30 minutes of my life to the hotel. Only to discover 15 minutes in that my vaccination booklet and return ticket were left with the disaster of a visa office. Return 15 minutes, go through security again, pick up my folder, exit again, get into the right car, and drive the longest 30 minutes of my life to the hotel.
In the end I made it to the swankiest hotel I've ever seen, ordered room service (45 minutes late and cold, but really, WHO CARES ANYMORE??), and got in bed. I've never been so relieved to be in between two sheets. Trying to stay upbeat I thought, well at least I've just experienced the worst travel day of my life.
Side note: I hadn't. Not even close.
Sadly, my time in Rwanda went by far too quickly. Onwards to Tanzania via Kenya. A simple trip that became far too complicated.
From the first, we're not allowed through security until they announce check-in for our plane. Unusual, but I'm sure they have their reasons...so I wait until they call my flight, go through security and check-in, only to wait again inside the airport for my flight.
After landing in Nairobi as planned I checked into my gate only to be informed two hours later that we would be delayed another three hours. After spending an hour trying to use the airport Wifi I find an internet cafe and inform my Dar es Salaam colleagues I would be delayed. Only to hear precisely after I clicked "send" we were now NOT delayed by three hours but rather only one and would be boarding IMMEDIATELY. After running back to my gate, everyone is still sitting there. Why? The airline is hanging out blue ponchos.
That's right. We were going to walk across the airport to our plane and therefore needed ponchos because it was monsoon raining. No bus, no security, just willy-nilly across the asphalt in our blue ponchoes to our airplane. And then, in another first for me, I was asked to sit in one of the exit seats that faces the plane rather than the cockpit. Taking off facing the back of the plane, in a rainstorm, is a different experience, that's for sure...
After finally making it to Dar es Salaam, I go to pay my visa in Euros, but they insist I get American dollars because "you'll get a better deal". Turns out that it's 100 Euros or a 100 dollars for American citizens, we have no choice on single or multiple entry visas and they don't give change. OKAAAAAY. Where should I get dollars? Oh easy, he says. Walk through the passport check - without a visa and without a check - go to the exchange office, change the money, then come back. That's right. I walked through without my passport or anything, out of passport control and into baggage claim where I could exchange my money. No escort or anything, he just trusted that an exhausted, red-eyed American would come back. I did, naturally, but still.
Thirty minutes later, visa in hand, I find that none of the luggage made it on the plane. That's right, we were delayed but somehow they just chose not to load anyone's luggage while waiting. After 12 hours of travel, I just don't care. I have some extra clothes in my backpack - "just in case" she says - and seeing how I was staying in a fancy hotel for work, I figure they'll have a toothbrush. So I fill out my forms and tell them where to deliver my luggage when they get it.
I hop in the car with my driver. Oh whoops no, I hop in a car with someone else's driver, so I get out again. Then I hop in MY car and we start the longest 30 minutes of my life to the hotel. Only to discover 15 minutes in that my vaccination booklet and return ticket were left with the disaster of a visa office. Return 15 minutes, go through security again, pick up my folder, exit again, get into the right car, and drive the longest 30 minutes of my life to the hotel.
In the end I made it to the swankiest hotel I've ever seen, ordered room service (45 minutes late and cold, but really, WHO CARES ANYMORE??), and got in bed. I've never been so relieved to be in between two sheets. Trying to stay upbeat I thought, well at least I've just experienced the worst travel day of my life.
Side note: I hadn't. Not even close.
Monday, June 18, 2012
Kigali: Economic Development
May 11, 2012
As part of an effort to protect marshlands throughout the country the Rwandan government prohibited economic activities in those areas. As part of the solution, they created a special economic zone where some of the industries were allowed to relocate. I had the opportunity to drive through there and look at the new construction, most of which has only now started.
I actually found this process to be one of the most interesting things I learned while in Rwanda because it was the exact nexus of my interests - how governments and businesses can work together to be more sustainable. Initially the government had just decided to prohibit economic activity around marshlands without consulting the businesses. However, the costs of relocation are so large and finding the right space is difficult that the decision would have caused severe financial difficulties and possible bankruptcies for the companies. In my world, sustainability is not such about the environment, its about the entire ecosystem of lives, including economic and social sustainability. To ensure economic sustainability (while still protecting the environment) the Rwandan government - with the help of the organization with which I was working - entered into dialogue with the companies. The outcome was a mixed solution with elements of repurchase and relocation subsidies where both government and business provided funds. A really great example of how the environment can still be protected while supporting business interests. The process was not without its flaws and only the future can tell how successful the special economic zone is, but nonetheless a much more enlightened process than that I've seen in some developed countries...
Grain mill and storage in the special economic zone
China is everywhere, literally. They're taking their economic colonialism quite seriously...
The required picture of cute African children
Incubation Center
The same day we visited a so-called "incubation center", which is sponsored by several groups and the government, to promote basic skills and craftsmanship so that Rwandans without technical training can create their own small business. The incubation center has had mixed success, as best. Certain areas, such as leather-working, have found success through the production and sale of shoes whereas others, such as fruit processing (i.e. jams, juices, etc.) and bamboo furniture production hasn't even made it off the ground.
The factors for the success vs. failure situations are manifold, and the experiences of the incubation center are a fairly good reflection of the issues that plague development in general. I won't go into that now (there have been tomes written on this topic) but am happy to have this discuss with you one-on-one, if you're interested.
Producing leather shoes for sale at local markets
Bamboo furniture, produced by...the Chinese.
The way to and from goes through...you guessed it, a marsh! In rainy season, the cars have to drive through the water and the villagers stand there and wait, partially out of curiosity and partially so they can get money if someone's car gets stuck and they need help pulling it out...
As part of an effort to protect marshlands throughout the country the Rwandan government prohibited economic activities in those areas. As part of the solution, they created a special economic zone where some of the industries were allowed to relocate. I had the opportunity to drive through there and look at the new construction, most of which has only now started.
I actually found this process to be one of the most interesting things I learned while in Rwanda because it was the exact nexus of my interests - how governments and businesses can work together to be more sustainable. Initially the government had just decided to prohibit economic activity around marshlands without consulting the businesses. However, the costs of relocation are so large and finding the right space is difficult that the decision would have caused severe financial difficulties and possible bankruptcies for the companies. In my world, sustainability is not such about the environment, its about the entire ecosystem of lives, including economic and social sustainability. To ensure economic sustainability (while still protecting the environment) the Rwandan government - with the help of the organization with which I was working - entered into dialogue with the companies. The outcome was a mixed solution with elements of repurchase and relocation subsidies where both government and business provided funds. A really great example of how the environment can still be protected while supporting business interests. The process was not without its flaws and only the future can tell how successful the special economic zone is, but nonetheless a much more enlightened process than that I've seen in some developed countries...
Grain mill and storage in the special economic zone
China is everywhere, literally. They're taking their economic colonialism quite seriously...
The required picture of cute African children
Incubation Center
The same day we visited a so-called "incubation center", which is sponsored by several groups and the government, to promote basic skills and craftsmanship so that Rwandans without technical training can create their own small business. The incubation center has had mixed success, as best. Certain areas, such as leather-working, have found success through the production and sale of shoes whereas others, such as fruit processing (i.e. jams, juices, etc.) and bamboo furniture production hasn't even made it off the ground.
The factors for the success vs. failure situations are manifold, and the experiences of the incubation center are a fairly good reflection of the issues that plague development in general. I won't go into that now (there have been tomes written on this topic) but am happy to have this discuss with you one-on-one, if you're interested.
Producing leather shoes for sale at local markets
Bamboo furniture, produced by...the Chinese.
The way to and from goes through...you guessed it, a marsh! In rainy season, the cars have to drive through the water and the villagers stand there and wait, partially out of curiosity and partially so they can get money if someone's car gets stuck and they need help pulling it out...
Kigali, Rwanda: At least once...
May 10, 2012
Timo got some of the fried lake fish - Isambaza (EeSahmBahZah) - from a work colleague and following my policy of trying cultural foods at least once, I brought myself to put some on my plate. They're surprisingly delicious and crispy, and only look terribly disgusting.
The sad, schizophrenic puppy of the house. Belongs to some aid workers who were supposed to pick her up again after one weekend but somehow left it there for several weeks...I fostered dogs for a year but I understand that with my current life I can't dedicate the time necessary to really take care of one. PLEASE don't get animals because they're cute or free. If you can't really dedicate time to the animal the way you would to your own child (one that never grows up and could belong to you for twenty years, incidentally), please please don't get one.
Timo got some of the fried lake fish - Isambaza (EeSahmBahZah) - from a work colleague and following my policy of trying cultural foods at least once, I brought myself to put some on my plate. They're surprisingly delicious and crispy, and only look terribly disgusting.
The sad, schizophrenic puppy of the house. Belongs to some aid workers who were supposed to pick her up again after one weekend but somehow left it there for several weeks...I fostered dogs for a year but I understand that with my current life I can't dedicate the time necessary to really take care of one. PLEASE don't get animals because they're cute or free. If you can't really dedicate time to the animal the way you would to your own child (one that never grows up and could belong to you for twenty years, incidentally), please please don't get one.
Kigali, Rwanda: Concert
May 9, 2012
This woman, Sia Tolno, is Guinean and the winner of the 2011 Radio Francais International singing competition. She's an awesome performer, mixing traditional Guinean styles with jazz. At some point she pulled a group from Rwanda onstage, a woman and two men, who then free-styled with her. The Rwandan woman (I sadly did not get their name) was absolutely phenomenal. The whole concert was really fun and a great taste of the cultural offerings in Kigali. Thanks to Timo for the great idea!
This guy is really good
This woman, Sia Tolno, is Guinean and the winner of the 2011 Radio Francais International singing competition. She's an awesome performer, mixing traditional Guinean styles with jazz. At some point she pulled a group from Rwanda onstage, a woman and two men, who then free-styled with her. The Rwandan woman (I sadly did not get their name) was absolutely phenomenal. The whole concert was really fun and a great taste of the cultural offerings in Kigali. Thanks to Timo for the great idea!
This guy is really good
Kigali, Rwanda: food and transport
May 8, 2012
Africa Bite - random mix of African foods, buffet-style. Also an intelligent name, because "bite" is both "to bite" in English, and "welcome" in Kinyarwanda.
This paper has been blessed by the hands of a hundred mototaxi drivers: Since I can't speak the common languages, the office manager gave directions to and from work in Kinyarwanda...
Africa Bite - random mix of African foods, buffet-style. Also an intelligent name, because "bite" is both "to bite" in English, and "welcome" in Kinyarwanda.
This paper has been blessed by the hands of a hundred mototaxi drivers: Since I can't speak the common languages, the office manager gave directions to and from work in Kinyarwanda...
Sunday, June 17, 2012
Kigali, Rwanda: More rain and guesthouse
May 6, 2012
Avocado from the guest house garden on my city map (we also had delicious papayas...)
I love rain!!
The watchman thinks I'm nuts, just like my co-workers...
Avocado from the guest house garden on my city map (we also had delicious papayas...)
I love rain!!
The watchman thinks I'm nuts, just like my co-workers...
Kigali, Rwanda: Market
May 5, 2012
I know I've mentioned this before, but I love markets. Love love love. So after ringing in Cinco de Mayo the night before with a German, two Americans, and a Rwanda, I popped on a motortaxi with another American and a Dane and headed over to the Kimirongo Market on the east side of the city.
I have NEVER been on a motorcycle and starting my first day in Rwanda I had to ride a motorcycle at least twice a day, as it's really the only way of transportation to and from my office. This Africa trip was definitely an exercise in saying the words "I've never done that before!".
Sweet sweet morning for a motorcycle ride...
An example of the moto-taxi drivers, waiting for customers outside the market
As far as African market goes, this was was very organized with every stall arranged by product type and the stalls in nice orderly rows.
One of my favorite African snacks on the ground: sugar cane. Yum yum!
Cellphones, cards, covers, and general repair services...
Fresh meat...
Need a dress? Buy the fabric...
Tiny fried fish from the lakes...
Fresh fish!
Some of the fresh produce I purchased! Mmmm...passion fruit
I know I've mentioned this before, but I love markets. Love love love. So after ringing in Cinco de Mayo the night before with a German, two Americans, and a Rwanda, I popped on a motortaxi with another American and a Dane and headed over to the Kimirongo Market on the east side of the city.
I have NEVER been on a motorcycle and starting my first day in Rwanda I had to ride a motorcycle at least twice a day, as it's really the only way of transportation to and from my office. This Africa trip was definitely an exercise in saying the words "I've never done that before!".
Sweet sweet morning for a motorcycle ride...
An example of the moto-taxi drivers, waiting for customers outside the market
As far as African market goes, this was was very organized with every stall arranged by product type and the stalls in nice orderly rows.
One of my favorite African snacks on the ground: sugar cane. Yum yum!
Cellphones, cards, covers, and general repair services...
Fresh meat...
Need a dress? Buy the fabric...
Then deliver it down the aisle to the tailor!
Tiny fried fish from the lakes...
Fresh fish!
Some of the fresh produce I purchased! Mmmm...passion fruit
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