Rwanda is an interesting place because although they experienced a life- and country-shattering genocide less than 20 years ago, it is not visible to the casual visitor. The Kigali Genocide Memorial Centre ("Gisozi Memorial") is hidden on the side of a hill and the Hotel des Mille Collines, on which the movie Hotel Rwanda is based, continues to be a functioning posh hotel.
But the scars from the genocide are there and they run extremely deep. Everyone knows who was involved in the killings, who lost their family, and who helped or stood by as this all happened. That means the social life there is bracketed by this knowledge and many individuals really only socialize with a select few family members and friends. Joining a social circle there is extremely difficult and although everyone on the street is excessively helpful, they will never get into the personal discussions that you may get if you were a foreigner in say, Tanzania or Turkey. I was also talking with two girls who work in mental health in Kigali, and they said the matter is further complicated by the lack of appropriate words for feelings in Kinyarwanda. Very few people are willing to talk about how the genocide affect them, and those who do struggle to find the right words to express anger, frustration, dismay, and loss.
Hotel des Mille Collines is also interesting because in Kigali most hotels let you use their pools for $5/day, but in this hotel you know you're swimming in a pool that played an integral part of protecting over a thousand genocide refugees. Guidebooks expressly recommend going to this hotel and swimming in their pool because of this, a very odd recommendation in my opinion. I found it discomforting and strange just to sit in the bar there because all I could think was that a thousand people hid for their lives in what is now the most expensive location in the city. The garden is truly beautiful and it provides this amazing oasis from the sounds and discomforts of the city, but there is a constant feeling of parallel histories as you imagine the fear and anguish that existed only 20 years ago in the exact same location. The disparate realities are difficult to process.
Rwanda has recovered miraculously from the devastation that followed the genocide economically and politically, particularly since the current government is doing everything it can to memorialize the event while continuing to push the country forward to development and modernity. Nonetheless, I wonder sometimes at the underlying emotional damage that follows people around. Will they pass these scars and fears on to their children? Will the country ever open up emotionally or will it continue to grow as a guarded society? Will there later be outward manifestations, like a high level of mental disease or physical aggression?
If you ever are in Kigali, the Gisozi and Hotel des Mille Collines are must-visit locations, but both only really scratch at the surface of what happened and is continuing to develop in the country.
Showing posts with label Kigali. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kigali. Show all posts
Friday, June 29, 2012
Sunday, June 24, 2012
Kigali Stories: Food
OK, so this isn't really a story, but I love food and here's what's up in Kigali (abridged):
Must Have:
Milk and/or yogurt, particularly the ones that are produced locally on the outskirts of Kigali
Homemade ice cream from La Galette, the German bakery (I like cherry, but all the flavors are outstanding)
Isambaza (available at all the local markets, but safer if you ask a local where to get the best stuff)
Market-bought passion fruit, avocado, and papaya. The papaya especially far surpasses any import you might get in Europe or the U.S.
Restaurants:
Ok, I only went to three restaurants so this is not extensive by any means...in general, all restaurants are vegetarian-friendly, so I won't make specific notes about that.
Lalibela
Kimihura (also called Kimihurura) neighborhood
The only Ethiopian restaurant in the city and popular with just about everyone. Go for their lunch buffet, where you can partake in an all-you-can-eat buffet with a drink for less than the U.S. equivalent of $10. The sponge bread is not as sour as you may expect from Ethiopian, but the rest of the food is good quality and traditional. In the neighborhood of
Africa Bite
Kimihura
You saw the pictures before (click the link if you didn't!), so you know their lunch buffet is also awesome. Slightly cheaper than Lalibela, in the same neighborhood, but less vegetarian-friendly. But they also include dessert bowl of fresh cut fruit, so I'm a fan!
Hotel de Milles Collines
City Center, Kiyovu
The hotel from Hotel Rwanda continues to be an expensive and upscale hotel (more on that later) and provides the perfect oasis within the city if you want cocktails or a quick bite to eat. Definitely more expensive than anywhere else you might go in the entire city, but might be worth it if you want to be surrounded by grass, leafy trees, and near-total peace from the city noises. They also make a mean (and surprisingly spicy) quesadilla if you're craving Mexican...
Must Have:
Milk and/or yogurt, particularly the ones that are produced locally on the outskirts of Kigali
Homemade ice cream from La Galette, the German bakery (I like cherry, but all the flavors are outstanding)
Isambaza (available at all the local markets, but safer if you ask a local where to get the best stuff)
Market-bought passion fruit, avocado, and papaya. The papaya especially far surpasses any import you might get in Europe or the U.S.
Restaurants:
Ok, I only went to three restaurants so this is not extensive by any means...in general, all restaurants are vegetarian-friendly, so I won't make specific notes about that.
Lalibela
Kimihura (also called Kimihurura) neighborhood
The only Ethiopian restaurant in the city and popular with just about everyone. Go for their lunch buffet, where you can partake in an all-you-can-eat buffet with a drink for less than the U.S. equivalent of $10. The sponge bread is not as sour as you may expect from Ethiopian, but the rest of the food is good quality and traditional. In the neighborhood of
Africa Bite
Kimihura
You saw the pictures before (click the link if you didn't!), so you know their lunch buffet is also awesome. Slightly cheaper than Lalibela, in the same neighborhood, but less vegetarian-friendly. But they also include dessert bowl of fresh cut fruit, so I'm a fan!
Hotel de Milles Collines
City Center, Kiyovu
The hotel from Hotel Rwanda continues to be an expensive and upscale hotel (more on that later) and provides the perfect oasis within the city if you want cocktails or a quick bite to eat. Definitely more expensive than anywhere else you might go in the entire city, but might be worth it if you want to be surrounded by grass, leafy trees, and near-total peace from the city noises. They also make a mean (and surprisingly spicy) quesadilla if you're craving Mexican...
Kigali Stories: Children
The children in Kigali appear to be well-mannered schoolkids around their schools and playgrounds (in glaring contrast to the schools I saw in Tanzania), but there is this crazy phenomenon where they go insane the second they see white people on the street. All of the sudden these wild monkeys dressed in blue school uniforms,start yelling, I love you! I am 7 years old! Do you have money! I'm hungry!. What's even more interesting is that at a certain age, the behavior stops and the older students take a cool indifference to us. Although the
kids legitimately hope they'll get money, they also just delight in
yelling out everything they know in English, which sometimes leads to a
string of ridiculous statements.
Kigali stories: Kimirongo Market
So my bad, I just realized I had stories from Africa I forgot to integrate into the pictures...whoops. Well, y'all can read them now and I'll try to link to the post with photos where it's relevant.
May 5, 2012
On Saturday Sam, Nynne, and I made our way over to Kimirongo Market, one of the biggest markets in Kigali. While Nynne was looking for a new purse, we walked into one of the clothing stalls and this old man there with a cane took a liking to Sam. He kept offering her marriage, and was pinching her arm and slapping her when she tried to get away. Sam was laughing, but at the same time the guy was seriously pinching her and she was trying to get away before his marks turned too red. The actual stall owner kept assuring us that he was joking, and I couldn't help laughing at the comedic scene (albeit from a safe, pinch-free distance)...
After we got away from the old man and with Nynne's new purse, we headed over to the fruit stands. One of my favorite things about going to countries that aren't overly developed and filled with supermarkets is that you can still get fresh (and cheap) fruits and vegetables. After bargaining with the sellers, I made off with a bag full of bananas for 250 Rwf ($0.41) and 150 Rwf ($0.25) for an avocado, which I proceeded to eat later in my room while waiting out a huge downpour.
Later on my way home, I mistakenly had it in my head that we were on the western side of Kigali, when in reality we were on the Eastern side. As a result, I started haggling with a mototaxi driver, saying I wanted to go home for 500 Rwf. In reality, that trip probably should have cost about 1400 Rwf...After 10 mototaxi drivers all pulled up and joined the discussion and a woman working at the cell phone booth next door came over to mediate, we finally settled on 1000 Rwf. I was arguing so earnestly because I was completely convinced that they were trying to screw me over, only to discover 30 minutes later that it really was quite far from my house...whoops, haha. I can just imagine the other 9 mototaxi drivers talking later about the crazy mzungu woman.
May 5, 2012
On Saturday Sam, Nynne, and I made our way over to Kimirongo Market, one of the biggest markets in Kigali. While Nynne was looking for a new purse, we walked into one of the clothing stalls and this old man there with a cane took a liking to Sam. He kept offering her marriage, and was pinching her arm and slapping her when she tried to get away. Sam was laughing, but at the same time the guy was seriously pinching her and she was trying to get away before his marks turned too red. The actual stall owner kept assuring us that he was joking, and I couldn't help laughing at the comedic scene (albeit from a safe, pinch-free distance)...
After we got away from the old man and with Nynne's new purse, we headed over to the fruit stands. One of my favorite things about going to countries that aren't overly developed and filled with supermarkets is that you can still get fresh (and cheap) fruits and vegetables. After bargaining with the sellers, I made off with a bag full of bananas for 250 Rwf ($0.41) and 150 Rwf ($0.25) for an avocado, which I proceeded to eat later in my room while waiting out a huge downpour.
Later on my way home, I mistakenly had it in my head that we were on the western side of Kigali, when in reality we were on the Eastern side. As a result, I started haggling with a mototaxi driver, saying I wanted to go home for 500 Rwf. In reality, that trip probably should have cost about 1400 Rwf...After 10 mototaxi drivers all pulled up and joined the discussion and a woman working at the cell phone booth next door came over to mediate, we finally settled on 1000 Rwf. I was arguing so earnestly because I was completely convinced that they were trying to screw me over, only to discover 30 minutes later that it really was quite far from my house...whoops, haha. I can just imagine the other 9 mototaxi drivers talking later about the crazy mzungu woman.
Monday, June 18, 2012
Kigali: Economic Development
May 11, 2012
As part of an effort to protect marshlands throughout the country the Rwandan government prohibited economic activities in those areas. As part of the solution, they created a special economic zone where some of the industries were allowed to relocate. I had the opportunity to drive through there and look at the new construction, most of which has only now started.
I actually found this process to be one of the most interesting things I learned while in Rwanda because it was the exact nexus of my interests - how governments and businesses can work together to be more sustainable. Initially the government had just decided to prohibit economic activity around marshlands without consulting the businesses. However, the costs of relocation are so large and finding the right space is difficult that the decision would have caused severe financial difficulties and possible bankruptcies for the companies. In my world, sustainability is not such about the environment, its about the entire ecosystem of lives, including economic and social sustainability. To ensure economic sustainability (while still protecting the environment) the Rwandan government - with the help of the organization with which I was working - entered into dialogue with the companies. The outcome was a mixed solution with elements of repurchase and relocation subsidies where both government and business provided funds. A really great example of how the environment can still be protected while supporting business interests. The process was not without its flaws and only the future can tell how successful the special economic zone is, but nonetheless a much more enlightened process than that I've seen in some developed countries...
Grain mill and storage in the special economic zone
China is everywhere, literally. They're taking their economic colonialism quite seriously...
The required picture of cute African children
Incubation Center
The same day we visited a so-called "incubation center", which is sponsored by several groups and the government, to promote basic skills and craftsmanship so that Rwandans without technical training can create their own small business. The incubation center has had mixed success, as best. Certain areas, such as leather-working, have found success through the production and sale of shoes whereas others, such as fruit processing (i.e. jams, juices, etc.) and bamboo furniture production hasn't even made it off the ground.
The factors for the success vs. failure situations are manifold, and the experiences of the incubation center are a fairly good reflection of the issues that plague development in general. I won't go into that now (there have been tomes written on this topic) but am happy to have this discuss with you one-on-one, if you're interested.
Producing leather shoes for sale at local markets
Bamboo furniture, produced by...the Chinese.
The way to and from goes through...you guessed it, a marsh! In rainy season, the cars have to drive through the water and the villagers stand there and wait, partially out of curiosity and partially so they can get money if someone's car gets stuck and they need help pulling it out...
As part of an effort to protect marshlands throughout the country the Rwandan government prohibited economic activities in those areas. As part of the solution, they created a special economic zone where some of the industries were allowed to relocate. I had the opportunity to drive through there and look at the new construction, most of which has only now started.
I actually found this process to be one of the most interesting things I learned while in Rwanda because it was the exact nexus of my interests - how governments and businesses can work together to be more sustainable. Initially the government had just decided to prohibit economic activity around marshlands without consulting the businesses. However, the costs of relocation are so large and finding the right space is difficult that the decision would have caused severe financial difficulties and possible bankruptcies for the companies. In my world, sustainability is not such about the environment, its about the entire ecosystem of lives, including economic and social sustainability. To ensure economic sustainability (while still protecting the environment) the Rwandan government - with the help of the organization with which I was working - entered into dialogue with the companies. The outcome was a mixed solution with elements of repurchase and relocation subsidies where both government and business provided funds. A really great example of how the environment can still be protected while supporting business interests. The process was not without its flaws and only the future can tell how successful the special economic zone is, but nonetheless a much more enlightened process than that I've seen in some developed countries...
Grain mill and storage in the special economic zone
China is everywhere, literally. They're taking their economic colonialism quite seriously...
The required picture of cute African children
Incubation Center
The same day we visited a so-called "incubation center", which is sponsored by several groups and the government, to promote basic skills and craftsmanship so that Rwandans without technical training can create their own small business. The incubation center has had mixed success, as best. Certain areas, such as leather-working, have found success through the production and sale of shoes whereas others, such as fruit processing (i.e. jams, juices, etc.) and bamboo furniture production hasn't even made it off the ground.
The factors for the success vs. failure situations are manifold, and the experiences of the incubation center are a fairly good reflection of the issues that plague development in general. I won't go into that now (there have been tomes written on this topic) but am happy to have this discuss with you one-on-one, if you're interested.
Producing leather shoes for sale at local markets
Bamboo furniture, produced by...the Chinese.
The way to and from goes through...you guessed it, a marsh! In rainy season, the cars have to drive through the water and the villagers stand there and wait, partially out of curiosity and partially so they can get money if someone's car gets stuck and they need help pulling it out...
Kigali, Rwanda: At least once...
May 10, 2012
Timo got some of the fried lake fish - Isambaza (EeSahmBahZah) - from a work colleague and following my policy of trying cultural foods at least once, I brought myself to put some on my plate. They're surprisingly delicious and crispy, and only look terribly disgusting.
The sad, schizophrenic puppy of the house. Belongs to some aid workers who were supposed to pick her up again after one weekend but somehow left it there for several weeks...I fostered dogs for a year but I understand that with my current life I can't dedicate the time necessary to really take care of one. PLEASE don't get animals because they're cute or free. If you can't really dedicate time to the animal the way you would to your own child (one that never grows up and could belong to you for twenty years, incidentally), please please don't get one.
Timo got some of the fried lake fish - Isambaza (EeSahmBahZah) - from a work colleague and following my policy of trying cultural foods at least once, I brought myself to put some on my plate. They're surprisingly delicious and crispy, and only look terribly disgusting.
The sad, schizophrenic puppy of the house. Belongs to some aid workers who were supposed to pick her up again after one weekend but somehow left it there for several weeks...I fostered dogs for a year but I understand that with my current life I can't dedicate the time necessary to really take care of one. PLEASE don't get animals because they're cute or free. If you can't really dedicate time to the animal the way you would to your own child (one that never grows up and could belong to you for twenty years, incidentally), please please don't get one.
Kigali, Rwanda: Concert
May 9, 2012
This woman, Sia Tolno, is Guinean and the winner of the 2011 Radio Francais International singing competition. She's an awesome performer, mixing traditional Guinean styles with jazz. At some point she pulled a group from Rwanda onstage, a woman and two men, who then free-styled with her. The Rwandan woman (I sadly did not get their name) was absolutely phenomenal. The whole concert was really fun and a great taste of the cultural offerings in Kigali. Thanks to Timo for the great idea!
This guy is really good
This woman, Sia Tolno, is Guinean and the winner of the 2011 Radio Francais International singing competition. She's an awesome performer, mixing traditional Guinean styles with jazz. At some point she pulled a group from Rwanda onstage, a woman and two men, who then free-styled with her. The Rwandan woman (I sadly did not get their name) was absolutely phenomenal. The whole concert was really fun and a great taste of the cultural offerings in Kigali. Thanks to Timo for the great idea!
This guy is really good
Kigali, Rwanda: food and transport
May 8, 2012
Africa Bite - random mix of African foods, buffet-style. Also an intelligent name, because "bite" is both "to bite" in English, and "welcome" in Kinyarwanda.
This paper has been blessed by the hands of a hundred mototaxi drivers: Since I can't speak the common languages, the office manager gave directions to and from work in Kinyarwanda...
Africa Bite - random mix of African foods, buffet-style. Also an intelligent name, because "bite" is both "to bite" in English, and "welcome" in Kinyarwanda.
This paper has been blessed by the hands of a hundred mototaxi drivers: Since I can't speak the common languages, the office manager gave directions to and from work in Kinyarwanda...
Sunday, June 17, 2012
Kigali, Rwanda: More rain and guesthouse
May 6, 2012
Avocado from the guest house garden on my city map (we also had delicious papayas...)
I love rain!!
The watchman thinks I'm nuts, just like my co-workers...
Avocado from the guest house garden on my city map (we also had delicious papayas...)
I love rain!!
The watchman thinks I'm nuts, just like my co-workers...
Kigali, Rwanda: Market
May 5, 2012
I know I've mentioned this before, but I love markets. Love love love. So after ringing in Cinco de Mayo the night before with a German, two Americans, and a Rwanda, I popped on a motortaxi with another American and a Dane and headed over to the Kimirongo Market on the east side of the city.
I have NEVER been on a motorcycle and starting my first day in Rwanda I had to ride a motorcycle at least twice a day, as it's really the only way of transportation to and from my office. This Africa trip was definitely an exercise in saying the words "I've never done that before!".
Sweet sweet morning for a motorcycle ride...
An example of the moto-taxi drivers, waiting for customers outside the market
As far as African market goes, this was was very organized with every stall arranged by product type and the stalls in nice orderly rows.
One of my favorite African snacks on the ground: sugar cane. Yum yum!
Cellphones, cards, covers, and general repair services...
Fresh meat...
Need a dress? Buy the fabric...
Tiny fried fish from the lakes...
Fresh fish!
Some of the fresh produce I purchased! Mmmm...passion fruit
I know I've mentioned this before, but I love markets. Love love love. So after ringing in Cinco de Mayo the night before with a German, two Americans, and a Rwanda, I popped on a motortaxi with another American and a Dane and headed over to the Kimirongo Market on the east side of the city.
I have NEVER been on a motorcycle and starting my first day in Rwanda I had to ride a motorcycle at least twice a day, as it's really the only way of transportation to and from my office. This Africa trip was definitely an exercise in saying the words "I've never done that before!".
Sweet sweet morning for a motorcycle ride...
An example of the moto-taxi drivers, waiting for customers outside the market
As far as African market goes, this was was very organized with every stall arranged by product type and the stalls in nice orderly rows.
One of my favorite African snacks on the ground: sugar cane. Yum yum!
Cellphones, cards, covers, and general repair services...
Fresh meat...
Need a dress? Buy the fabric...
Then deliver it down the aisle to the tailor!
Tiny fried fish from the lakes...
Fresh fish!
Some of the fresh produce I purchased! Mmmm...passion fruit
Kigali, Rwanda: Rainy Season
April 4, 2012
Rainy season! Everyone complained, but I was a huge fan. Half a day of humidity-relieving rain and then a cool, sunny day.
View of the city in the rain:
View of the city after the rain:
One of the compound watchmen holding the umbrella to escort people in and out of the building...
Rainy season! Everyone complained, but I was a huge fan. Half a day of humidity-relieving rain and then a cool, sunny day.
View of the city in the rain:
View of the city after the rain:
One of the compound watchmen holding the umbrella to escort people in and out of the building...
Kigali: The Road to Work
May 2, 2012
My office thought I was totally crazy, but I chose to work outside whenever possible. Even in rainy season it was nicer outside than in Germany, and the possibility to work while looking at the garden was an too good to pass up.
The followers reminded me of California!
My office thought I was totally crazy, but I chose to work outside whenever possible. Even in rainy season it was nicer outside than in Germany, and the possibility to work while looking at the garden was an too good to pass up.
The followers reminded me of California!
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